Introduction | Positionality
This report includes reflections on the journey in the Inclusive Practices unit. It will focus on my personal experience and the artefact development for MA Fashion Design Management. Positionality was for me a new concept to grasp. Having been through this reflexive journey on the course I agree that you must consider your own position and privilege to be able to comment on social justice and inclusivity.
I am a white, Danish, cisgender, able-bodied woman living in the UK for the last 8 years. I come from a working-class background, and my brother and I are the first in the family to go to university. I recognise that I am privileged through the support of the Danish welfare and free education system, which has meant that there were fewer barriers for me. I have worked hard all my life though and started my first job as a 15-year-old working in a supermarket. I put myself through a one-year BA top-up course and postgraduate education here in the UK as a mature student, so I can relate to the stress experienced by some of our students too. My privilege also includes that I am white and that I have not experienced racism in my daily life growing up in a suburban white middle-class community. I understand that I will never be able to draw on my own lived experience of racism, but I can learn to be an ally.
The British and Danish cultures seem similar on the surface, but the longer time that I live here the more I notice the less visible differences. For example, the class system in the UK has taken me years to ‘see’ as Danish society is less influenced by class and hierarchy. ‘Jante’s Lov’ is still embedded in our culture, which suggests that we are all equal, but it has a repressive side as it suggests that you should not believe that you are better or worth more than anyone else (Booth, 2015). It is looked down upon to boast about successes and stand out. This means that you will experience an informal and flat hierarchal structure in most places. That doesn’t mean that class does not exist, but most of us would be likely to describe ourselves as middle class as there is less of a public-perceived social class gap (Wedel, 2018). It might also feel like a more ‘comfortable’ description by Danish people of a perceived homogeneous society. Maybe we grew up not seeing diversity as I believe Danish people do live in white segregation as highlighted by Diangelo (2018).
Despite that I am not British, I am still part of most academic staff at UAL by being a white female (UAL Dashboard, 2022) and in higher education in the UK in general (SoN B, 2018; Bhopal, 2020). My student group is diverse and international, but I represent the minority that is white European/British in the classroom. Danish is my native language; English is now my everyday language and I also speak and write German. Having been through the journey of advancing my English skills as part of my professional verbal and written language, I can empathise with the challenges of international students on the same journey. Being a non-native English speaker, this is an experience I can draw on in my relationship with the students.
I am also aware that my culturally ingrained discomfort with hierarchy can be confusing for students as they might not be used to this informal relationship with their educator. On the other hand, this can also be a positive starting point for building trust in our relationship and supporting their independence. This is something after this course that I consider I should embrace more for open discussions in the classroom.
Context
I work at LCF as the course leader of the MA Fashion Design Management course. I am keen to explore an artefact directly for the course. My idea is to embed an Inclusivity perspective in the block 1 unit called ‘Sustainable Design Thinking’ (SDT). The students work with the Design Thinking process (Appendix C), which is a problem-solving design method that encourages empathy and understanding of the people affected to solve the problem/issue (Illinois Institute of Technology, 2017). Empathy can give design purpose and connect us with each other (Onomatopee, 2021). I believe embedding this perspective at an early stage in their degree will make inclusivity issues visible to students and encourage them to explore this for their individual projects.
Artefact: Reflection & Action
The term ‘Empathy gap’ discussed in session 1 stood out for me. I would like to explore how I can facilitate reflections of empathy in my students to try and lessen the gap a little. The SDT unit seems an obvious starting point as the Design Thinking process is human-centric, and the first stage is to ‘Empathise’. In this stage, the students (designers) seek to understand and empathise with people in order to define a problem/challenge that they will explore solutions for.
The students select an issue, problem or scenario based on a selection of Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs, 2022). I will add Development Goal 10 ‘Reduce inequality within and among countries’ to integrate a small change of the assessment brief to cover the inclusivity perspective as part of the sustainability discussion on this unit. Appendix A shows sections of the Assessment brief in the current form and Appendix B includes yellow highlights and commentary to clarify how I can embed this change.
In combination with changing the brief, I propose to include an activity for the ‘Empathise’ stage (Appendix C). Inspired by blog post task 1, I will ask them to explore the SoN A (2020) ‘Disabled people: The voice of many’ articles and highlight some personal stories such as Kim (2012), Low (n.d.) and Huber (2020) as a pre-read activity to support a deeper understanding of individual challenges. They would be asked to pick one personal story (or an example from another source) to share on a padlet and reflect on a problem/challenge that this individual is facing. This activity would be the starting point for some students responding to SDG 10 (10.2 in particular, Appendix D) by exploring design solutions for inclusivity.
This small change would mean that we would encourage to focus on social justice for the individual student projects. The structure of this unit is based on peer review sessions and the tutors act more as facilitators through the design thinking stages to support their critical thinking. This compares to Freire’s (1970) view that educators must rethink the classical power dynamic in the classroom and be partners with the students to support them in their learning journey of critical thinking for social justice through dialogue. Tapper (2013) also emphasises the importance of the educator’s role as a facilitator rather than a teacher for critical pedagogy. In this way, this unit is suitable to focus on inclusivity reflections.
Evaluation
The unit currently emphasises design solutions for environmental sustainability, so I believe this would be an impactful small change to make. It provides a space for all students to discuss and critically reflect on social and racial injustice issues and their own position. Some students would be taking this further for their individual projects. Furthermore, it highlights the social and racial injustice perspective early on in the course to facilitate students to explore this in more depth for other units or the Master Projects too. Exploring the SoN resources and network could also empower students to be more confident about their own position and direction for their ideas.
I received very useful feedback from my blogging group (Figure 1) and Dr Kwame Baah (Figure 2). They were all positive about the idea of focusing on personal stories and getting students to reflect on them to explore how they could use design to have a meaningful impact.
Figure 1: Feedback Blogging Group
Feedback: Blogging Group | Reflections: Jeanne |
Would there be an opportunity to bring this idea of empathy back to the students, with them sharing their own personal experiences? | Discussing from personal experience would be more relatable and easier to be empathetic for both the student itself but also peers. |
To lessen the empathy gap by experiencing it themselves (Embodied experience) or bring in the user perhaps a family member, friend or someone they know. Bring back to self before reaching out, finding out who they are is the first step! | It was an interesting discussion on how to embody experiences for becoming more empathetic. I agree that lived experience, even if simulated, helps to build empathy. |
Include visual elements to support understanding and give more guidance on the discussion. | This could be done by adding visual examples in the brief – how might this be translated into a design element |
How ok is it to make the students feel uncomfortable in the situation? | I agree that some degree of tolerating discomfort is part of the critical learning process as highlighted by the white fragility term (Diangelo, 2018) |
Figure 2: Feedback Dr. Kwame Baah
Feedback: Dr. Kwame Baah | Reflections: Jeanne |
“…You may wish to encourage each student to consider their positionality in relation to disability and inclusiveness to anchor their understanding of disability. This allows each solution to hold a relational notion as a correlation to how they embed empathy in design.” | I agree that the students must start with themselves to understand their position. You must critically reflect on yourself first and this should be embedded in the activity or unit. This is an important point that I need to embed. |
“…You may choose to review the European-centred concepts of the fashion industry, ‘sustainable fashion design thinking’, United Nations’ definitions of sustainability, and other defined concepts through an agreed working definition because they are redundant in most other cultures. Working definitions avoid ambiguity.” | I appreciated our conversation about this. I had not reflected on these definitions as being euro-centric before. This would be a useful introductory exercise to embed in the unit as sustainability is a core topic. |
Conclusion
The feedback conversations were supportive and constructive. The main action point from the feedback from colleagues and Dr Kwame Baah was to ensure that the reflections must start around the student themselves. The feedback made me realise that they must consider their own position to be able to reflect critically. Just as I realise that I must do it myself. Additionally, there was an important question on students feeling of discomfort in the process, but this might be an inevitable part of the critical thinking process. Dr Kwame Baah highlighted the euro-centric terms and definitions, which make me see and reflect on our unit briefs from a new perspective.
I will continue these reflections together with students’ feedback for reviewing the course through the revalidation process next year. The social justice and inclusivity perspective will be part of the review of all units and this artefact is the first step. It also relates to the UAL strategy and the recent review [18th July 2022] of all units from our student climate advocate (Appendix E).
This Inclusive Practices unit has opened my eyes to the work I need to take on for myself as well as for the course. I agree that there is no such thing as a neutral education process as proposed by Friere (1970) and we can choose to facilitate critical reflections rather than conformity. I will make use of Diangelo (2018) point of view to encourage me on this journey by tolerating my discomfort, aiming to be humble and challenging myself to make progress.
References
Bhopal, K. (2020) UK’s white female academics are being privileged above women – and men – of colour Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/education/2020/jul/28/uks-white-female-academics-are-being-privileged-above-women-and-men-of-colour
Booth (2015) The Law of Jante. Available at: https://www.theparisreview.org/blog/2015/02/11/the-law-of-jante/
Diangelo, R. (2018) White Fragility. Peekaboo We See You: Whiteness. Available at: https://issuu.com/shadesofnoir/docs/peekaboo_we_see_you_whiteness/s/151951
Huber, E. (2020) Voices of Disability: People with Disabilities deserve great style – I’ve made it my life’s work. Available at: https://www.refinery29.com/en-gb/2020/07/9934101/adaptive-clothing-fashion-stephanie-thomas-cur8able
Freire, P. (1970) Pedagogy of the oppressed. Continuum. New York
Illinois Institute of Technology (2017) Design Thinking. Available at: https://citl.illinois.edu/paradigms/design-thinking
Kim, C. S. (2012) Christine Sun Kim – 10 min. Available at: https://vimeo.com/31083172
Low, F. (n.d) SoN journals: In Conversation with Sky Cubacub https://shadesofnoir.org.uk/journals/content/in-conversation-with-sky-cubacub
Onomatopee (2021) Empathy revisited: Design for more than one. Available at: https://www.onomatopee.net/exhibition/empathy-revisited/
SDG 10 (2022) Sustainable Development Goal 10. Available at: https://sdgs.un.org/goals/goal10
SDGs (2022) Sustainable Development Goals. Available at: https://sdgs.un.org/
SoN A (2020) ToR: Disabled people: The voice of many. Available at: https://shadesofnoir.org.uk/journals/disabled-people-the-voice-of-the-many
SoN B (2018) ToR: Peekaboo We See You: Whiteness. Available at: Peekaboo We See You: Whiteness by Shades Of Noir – Issuu
Tapper, A. J. H. (2013) A Pedagogy of Social Justice Education: Social Identity Theory, Intersectionality, and Empowerment.
Wedel, S. O. (2018) The class society is alive – and so what? Aarhus University School of Business and Social Sciences. Available at: https://bss.au.dk/en/insights/samfund-1/2018/the-class-society-is-alive-and-so-what
UAL Dashboard (2022) HR Staff diversity by department. Available at: https://dashboards.arts.ac.uk/dashboard/ActiveDashboards/DashboardPage.aspx?dashboardid=759217d2-9d2d-47a7-bd13-daa13b0056ce&dashcontextid=637945253646490613
Appendices








